Much More Than A Gravel Bar.

One of my hobbies is writing my blog. I enjoy sitting down and researching an area I'm about to visit or have recently visited. Sometimes what I take to be an ordinary place can end up being extraordinary.
Take the "Wairau Bar' for example. I headed there to watch people whitebaiting, thinking it wouldn't be much more than a gravel bar running alongside the river.

But how wrong was I. Turns out to have some fascinating history.

The Wairau Bar or Te Pokohiwi is a 19 hectare gravel bar that was formed where the Wairau River meets the sea at Cloudy Bay. It has some of New Zealand's most important archaeological history. The area is the earliest known site for human occupation in New Zealand and was home to the first Polynesian migrants who became known as the Moa Hunters.

In 1939 a school boy, Jim Eyles discovered the site and over time, around 2000 artifacts have been unearthed. These have been radiocarbon dated to around 1300AD. At one time it was a burial site, which has been confirmed by the 44 skeletons that have been found throughout the area. It's believed they were either distributed by a large storm or a tsunami. Not only human remains have been found, but also moa bones and other bird and animal remains suggesting the diet of the people at that time.

Archaeological treasures aren't the only things buried in the area. Beside the gravel road, close to the river mouth, are the partly buried remains of a hull belonging to the ship wreck, SS Kennedy.

The SS Kennedy also has an interesting history.
This steamship was built in Australia for the Queensland River service. Early on in its career it ran into a reef and was sent to Sydney for repairs. It was decided it wasn't suited for the river and was sold to a company in Nelson. Apparently it was a real money maker during the 54 years it sailed the Nelson to Hokitika route, especially in the earlier days when it was packed with gold miners off to seek their fortune. 

The SS Kennedy would leave Nelson with crowded decks, and some prospectors who couldn't get on board would try and jump from the wharf onto the ship. Often falling into the water and then trying to clamber up the sides of the steamer.

Passengers included gold miners from Australia and Californian goldfields, entertainers, traders and ladies of the night, on their way to gold towns such as Charleston or Fox River.
Once a hangman was onboard, with his gallows and ropes stowed below in the hold. 

The hull makes a great place to rest for shags

The SS Kennedys last venture to the West Coast was in 1918 when she came into trouble crossing the Westport Bar. The boilers were short of fuel and she was swept out of the channel. 
The following year a company in Wellington bought the vessel and for 10 years, she sailed from Wellington to Foxton.

In 1929, SS Kennedy was dismantled and the hull was towed to the Wairau River mouth to form a breakwater.

Last week Bernie and I drove to the Wairau Bar and parked near the river mouth. It was windy and chilly but that didn't stop whitebaiters from trying their luck.

One keen fisherman was standing in the water without waders, I'm sure after a few hours he wouldn't be able to feel his legs. Brrrrrrrr.

I spoke to one guy, who said he'd only caught enough for a couple of patties, adding it was hard yakker scooping the net against such a strong current.

As always, the dogs didn't want to miss any action. 

Although the ground was harsh and infertile, that didn't stop these wildflowers from doing what they do best - enhancing the area with their colour and beauty.