Patearoa & Paerau - Middle of Nowhere

Central Otago is known for it's blazing hot summers and freezing cold winters. And it didn't disappoint. We had a few days where the temperature was so high we felt there was no option but to find somewhere we humans and our three furry friends could have a swim. As luck would have it, about 15 minutes down the road (driving) we found an old mining township named 'Patearoa', and among many other treasures it had a lovely swimming hole. The good old fashioned swimming hole, where families come for a picnic and to enjoy a swim, people jump from rocks into the water and dogs are welcome to join in the fun. Perfect!

Patearoa is a charming little settlement tucked into the lower slopes of the Rock and Pillar Range in the south west of the Maniototo Plan. Originally known as Sowburn, this quaint little township began to grow in the 1870s as Hamiltons declined. Hamiltons became a flourishing gold mining town when gold was discovered in 1863 and is located on the northern slopes of the Rock and Pillars. At its peak the population of Hamilton reached 4000 with 25 hotels and 40 stores. By the mid 1870s most miners had left and the only reminders today of this bustling little town are some scarred areas of mining, a dam used for sluicing and a cemetery.
The gold rush in Patearoa was relatively short lived with some good results. 

Yes- the library is still open!

After we'd cooled off from our swim we headed south along a gravel road towards the Dunstan Trail (which is a 4WD track leading to Dunedin). Not that we wanted to go to Dunedin, but we did want to visit Paerau. Paerau means 'many ridges' and is also known as The Styx. I had heard there was an old jail there, which I was keen to photograph.

The road to Paerau is stunning with a rugged landscape, it's barren and simply breath-taking.

On the way we passed a few old buildings, some cosily nestled amongst their rocky surrounds.

This old stone walled building must have been photographed by every tourist who passes by.

We slowed down when we spotted a row of dog kennels housing several farm dogs. I explained to our spoilt dogs sitting cosily on their soft, warm rugs that they could have had a life as a working dog - their beds wouldn't be as cosy as they're used to. They didn't seem at all bothered, maybe they didn't believe me?

Further along the road we spotted a sign indicating a reservoir, so we pulled over and walked up a short farm track for a look. It's part of the Maniototo Irrigation Scheme which contributed to relieving drought in a farming community that's heavily reliant on water. 

The gravel road was in great condition, no corrugation, making it an easy drive. Again, the views were beautiful.

Further along the Paerau Road we came to a sign for the Dunstan Trail. One route climbs the Rock and Pillar Range from Pareau/Styx and comes out onto SH87 at Clarks Junction, south of Dunedin. Another continues west up Old Dunstan track over Rough Ridge to Poolburn and Moa Creek.
The Dunstan Trail is a popular 4WD and mountain bike track in summer. It's closed in winter.

It is here just to the left, on the banks of the Taieri River, you'll see the Styx Jail, the Styx Hotel and stables.The jail was built in 1863 and was for securing gold during overnight coach stops rather than for prisoners. Incase of a flood, two hotels operated on either side of the river.
Unfortunately the jail and other buildings were on private property, so I could only see them from the road.

Thank goodness for a zoom lens, I managed to get a closer look.

We decided not to go any further and turned around to head back to the rig. This old ford was parked on a narrow country lane in Patearoa.

The wheels had wooden spokes.

We enjoyed our tiki-tour exploring this part of Central Otago's unique landscape - below are a few extra photos of the area.

Waipiata - North Otago

Normally we travel about an hour at the most between places we stay at, but this time it was almost two hours between stops. The reason ... Bernie's daughter Renee was holidaying in North Otago so we decided to spend a few days with her. Our destination was Waipiata, which is only 11kms from Ranfurly. 
At Palmerston we headed inland down State Highway 85, which is also known as 'The Pigroute'. Apparently it gained it's name after John Turnbull Thomson (who was surveying and exploring the Otago region) traveled through the area with his surveying party and came across many wild pigs who seemed unafraid of humans. A huge boar rubbed its nose against Turnball's horse and the name 'Pigroute' came about.
Bowker's Bridge is in this area, it's the last of the original arched stone bridges on the Old Coach Road to Central Otago.

I stopped to take a photo of a farm paddock, which I thought looked eye-catching, with the yellow rapeseed creating a cheerful contrast to the burnt brown background

Google Maps indicated we turn off along a gravel road to get to Waipiata, I knew Bernie wouldn't be keen to take the rig too far along an unsealed road so I contacted him and said I'd meet him in Ranfurly. We met there and asked a local man if there was a sealed road to Waipiata. There was, and better still, it was only a 10 minute drive.
Waipiata is an historic township on the Otago Central Rail Trail. The Waipiata Domain provides a spacious area for camping.

Entrance to Waipiata Domain

The tiny township of Waipiata developed around the Railway and is now a popular stopover for those cycling the Rail Trail.
One afternoon when it wasn't scorching hot, I walked around the town and took photos of some of the old buildings. The Presbyterian Church (below) was built from Waipiata bluestone (also known as Kokonga stone) and Oamaru stone. It's now used as a holiday home.

Below is the Anglican Church which is now also used as a holiday home, or crib as it's called in the southern parts of New Zealand. St Clement's Anglican Church was opened in 1902 and was built with money raised by the community.

The Waipiata Hotel opened in 1899 but was destroyed by fire in 1932. We had a couple of meals there and enjoyed looking at the old photos displayed on the walls. Many locals and visitors (including the Rail Trail cyclists) enjoy this country pub.

Further along the road is an unused factory, which in the past was used for processing rabbits. The first rabbit factory, called 'McAdams Rabbit Factory' opened in 1898 near the Green Bridge. Several years later in 1919 a second factory opened - at one stage it was the largest in Otago. In its day it employed around 60 men in the canning factory. A slump in prices resulted in the factory closing in the 1930s. The building was then used for a variety of purposes, such as a woodshed and as concrete works.

 Below is a photo looking along the Main Street of Waipiata.

Nicely restored cottage on Waipiata's Main Street.

The Waipiata Man was built from bits of metal and sits beside the Rail Trail welcoming cyclists along the track.

Old Railway's building.

Waipiata was originally named Komako, which means Bellbird but local residents preferred the name Waipiata meaning 'Glistening water'.

The old "Waipiata Motors'.

Steel sculpture beside the Rail Trail.

We had a few evenings when the sky turned dark grey and thunder rumbled around the hills. I love the contrast in colours from golden, dry paddocks to stormy mauve coloured skies above.

Near Waipiata are the sale yards, which played an important role in the farming community. Sale Day was one of the biggest events in town with stock being brought to these sale yards from all over the Maniototo to be sold and sent away by train.

Near the entrance to the domain is a lucerne paddock. It was interesting to get a close up look at this plant after reading the book 'The Resilient Farmer' by Doug Avery. It's a brilliant book about a Marlborough farmer who suffered eight years of drought before growing lucerne to feed his sheep, which ultimately changed his whole farming practise.

Not far from Waipiata is the Green Bridge - this iron bridge was built in 1896 and named after it's colour. It's the only flood-free crossing of the Taieri River in the Maniototo. The Taieri River is New Zealand's third longest river.

We headed towards the old Waipiata Sanatorium passing a mob of sheep contained in a woodshed's holding pen. A well trained sheepdog was obediently sitting nearby maintaining crowd control. A couple of hours later as we drove passed again, I saw the dog still sitting loyally in the same spot - on duty.

Nestled in the foothills of the Rock and Pillar Range is a cluster of buildings. Some were built in 1914 as a private Sanatorium (owned by Dr George Byres) to treat tuberculosis. The dry Waipiata climate and height above sea level was considered a suitable cure for consumption. In the 1920s the Sanatorium became government owned and was further developed, including ward blocks, administration buildings, an operating theatre and houses for staff. When the Sanatorium closed it became a youth correction centre (borstal) for the Justice Department.
Today the settlement is named 'En Hakkore' and is a Christian Community and Retreat Centre.

I heard some scuttling around in the long grass nearby and saw a free-range hen scratching around for some insects and/or grass seed - a happy life for a chook.

Waipiata is an amazing little town with some interesting history. Staying here was ideal for us, it allowed us to have a base so we could do day trips exploring the area.

Sunrise.