Up Ship Creek

If you're travelling up (or down) the West Coast, it's worth putting aside a couple of hours to visit Ship Creek. It's about 20kms north of Haast. 

Ship Creek (Tauparikaka)

After I'd parked the bus, a couple travelling in a campervan came over to chat. They'd noticed I was travelling with dogs. And regrettably, they'd left their pooch at home, as they knew many areas of the West Coast were managed by DOC. They couldn't believe how restricting DOC are with dogs. I totally agreed!

Anyway, here I was at Ship Creek, and another DOC sign stated 'No Dogs'. So, Oakly and Boo stayed in the bus while I went to explore.

There are two walks at Ship Creek. The 'Kahikatea Swamp Forest Walk' and the 'Dune Lake Walk'. Both are easy, loop walks.

I decided to walk through the ancient swamp forest, which runs alongside Ship Creek. Being tannin stained, the water was a chocolate-brown colour, which enhanced the reflections.

You might be wondering how Ship Creek got its name. I thought it might be associated with the gold rush days. And thanks to 'Google' I found the answer. Ship Creek was named after a large fragment, belonging to a ship, was discovered at the mouth of Tauparikaka Creek. The wooden debris was unusual and hadn't been seen in New Zealand before, so its source was unknown. Over the years, other remnants were washed up and the mystery was solved. It turned out they were fragments off a sailing clipper named 'Schomberg.'  In 1855, the Schomberg set sail on its maiden voyage, from Liverpool to Melbourne. Originally, the Schomberg was described as the finest and fastest ship in the world. James 'Bully' Forbes, the captain, boasted that he'd reach Melbourne in 60 days. However after becoming becalmed, the voyage extended to 80 days. Then alas, the Schomberg ran aground after hitting a sand bar and its 300 passengers, stepped ashore in Victoria. Fragments of the ship drifted in all directions and some were discovered on a West Coast beach in the South Island. And that's how Ship Creek got its name.

New Zealand's tallest trees, kahikateas, seem to thrive in the swampy habitat.

Kahikateas (white pines)

The walk looped back to the start and I soon found myself back at the lookout tower (by the carpark). Nearby are picnic tables, toilets and a few information boards. I climbed up the two levels of the lookout tower to be rewarded with 360 degree views. 

View from the tower

I decided not to walk the Dune Lake track as I didn't want to leave the dogs in the bus for too long. Besides, that walk could wait for another time. So, instead I wandered along the beach, taking photos of reflections over the glass-like water.

The photo below shows the start of the Dune Lake Walk. It crosses over windswept sand dunes before it heads into a dense coastal forest, with stunted, wind-swept trees.

Lake Poaka

Mackenzie Basin is known for its great fishing and there are many lakes, canals and waterways to choose from - Lake Poaka is one of these popular spots. 

How do you get there?
If you're traveling south from Lake Pukaki, there's a bridge that crosses over the Pukaki Canal - turn right immediately before the bridge. There are no signs on the main road showing where this lake is. You'll drive onto a gravel road which follows alongside the canal.

There's a turn to your right that leads to the lake, but it's steep and rough so continue on for another 1.6kms and you'll find another right hand turn which is much better.

There's loads of space and lots of choices to park - spots near the trees for shade, large areas for any size campers and the whole area is pretty flat.

The ground is super dry, so dry that when I was walking across it, it was crunching like crispy autumn leaves underfoot. 

Lake Poaka is DOC and is open to freedom camping. You must be self contained and stay no longer than 4 consecutive nights in any calendar month. There are long drop toilets but no drinking water available.

The mountains in the distance make a stunning view and when there's no breeze the lake reflects like a mirror.

There was some bird life around, although not as much as I was expecting being a conservation area. 

Even though the dogs would love exploring this area, there's a 'No Dog' rule here.

If you decide to stay here, there's a dump station ten minutes down the road in Twizel. Plus shopping, fuel and fresh water can be found in Twizel.