Glacier County

There's a nice NZMCA park in Franz Josef. It's surrounded in native bush and handy to the village. There were two other campers already parked, so finding a park was easy. I chose a spot at the back of the park. The door opened to a lovely private area between the bus and the bush.in

Once, we had parked, we were off for a walk.

On this particular trip, I wasn't planning on visiting the glaciers. But I enjoyed hearing the helicopters buzzing overhead as they took tourists to see the glacial landscape.

After a walk around the side streets of Franz Josef we went back to the bus for dinner. 

The next morning, I emptied and filled up with fresh water and carried on north.

We'd only been driving about 10kms up the road when I spotted a stunning lake with mist rising above it.  

Lake Mapourika is the largest lake in Westland and is fed by several small streams that run down from the hills. Because the water drains through the forest floor it collects tannins which give it a dark colour. Tannins are a natural organic material that are by-products of decaying vegetation. It made the lake a rich tea colour.

Lake Mapourika, is a kettle lake and was formed when a large block of ice was left behind when Franz Josef glacier retreated (14,000 years ago). 

Mapourika roughly translates from Maori meaning ' Flower of the Dawn'.  

If fishing interests you - Lake Mapourika is a popular spot for salmon and trout. Each year in February, for three days, the Lake Mapourika Fishing Competition is held for professional and amateur fishermen. 

Up Ship Creek

If you're travelling up (or down) the West Coast, it's worth putting aside a couple of hours to visit Ship Creek. It's about 20kms north of Haast. 

Ship Creek (Tauparikaka)

After I'd parked the bus, a couple travelling in a campervan came over to chat. They'd noticed I was travelling with dogs. And regrettably, they'd left their pooch at home, as they knew many areas of the West Coast were managed by DOC. They couldn't believe how restricting DOC are with dogs. I totally agreed!

Anyway, here I was at Ship Creek, and another DOC sign stated 'No Dogs'. So, Oakly and Boo stayed in the bus while I went to explore.

There are two walks at Ship Creek. The 'Kahikatea Swamp Forest Walk' and the 'Dune Lake Walk'. Both are easy, loop walks.

I decided to walk through the ancient swamp forest, which runs alongside Ship Creek. Being tannin stained, the water was a chocolate-brown colour, which enhanced the reflections.

You might be wondering how Ship Creek got its name. I thought it might be associated with the gold rush days. And thanks to 'Google' I found the answer. Ship Creek was named after a large fragment, belonging to a ship, was discovered at the mouth of Tauparikaka Creek. The wooden debris was unusual and hadn't been seen in New Zealand before, so its source was unknown. Over the years, other remnants were washed up and the mystery was solved. It turned out they were fragments off a sailing clipper named 'Schomberg.'  In 1855, the Schomberg set sail on its maiden voyage, from Liverpool to Melbourne. Originally, the Schomberg was described as the finest and fastest ship in the world. James 'Bully' Forbes, the captain, boasted that he'd reach Melbourne in 60 days. However after becoming becalmed, the voyage extended to 80 days. Then alas, the Schomberg ran aground after hitting a sand bar and its 300 passengers, stepped ashore in Victoria. Fragments of the ship drifted in all directions and some were discovered on a West Coast beach in the South Island. And that's how Ship Creek got its name.

New Zealand's tallest trees, kahikateas, seem to thrive in the swampy habitat.

Kahikateas (white pines)

The walk looped back to the start and I soon found myself back at the lookout tower (by the carpark). Nearby are picnic tables, toilets and a few information boards. I climbed up the two levels of the lookout tower to be rewarded with 360 degree views. 

View from the tower

I decided not to walk the Dune Lake track as I didn't want to leave the dogs in the bus for too long. Besides, that walk could wait for another time. So, instead I wandered along the beach, taking photos of reflections over the glass-like water.

The photo below shows the start of the Dune Lake Walk. It crosses over windswept sand dunes before it heads into a dense coastal forest, with stunted, wind-swept trees.

Goodbye Otago ... Hello West Coast

After leaving Albert Town, we headed to the West Coast. Plan A had been to spend a night at Lake Hawea, but after losing the dogs, I decided it was time to leave rabbit country.

Before long, the countryside morphed into the wonderful West Coast - wild and remote. The trees had changed from deciduous to native. Our first stop was at Boundary Creek, off SH6.

Boundary Creek Campsite is located on the shores of Lake Wanaka. There's lots of sheltered spots to camp, flush toilets, fresh water, and dogs are allowed. 

Although, we hadn't planned on staying overnight, we spent some time exploring.

There are so many things I love about the South Island, and one of them, is how quickly the landscape can change. Half an hour ago, in all directions, there were the stunning colours of autumn (and rabbits!) and now, 30 minutes further on, all around was every shade of green. 

Another change was the temperature! It had dropped and rain wasn't far away. 

The shore line was smothered in coloured rocks, they'd be the perfect colour for skinks to camouflage amongst. 

A sturdily built driftwood hut, had the perfect view, looking down the lake. And all around was driftwood and not a single rabbit in sight!

Once the dogs had sniffed everything, and stretched their legs, we continued on to Haast.

'Haast Pass-Makaroa Road' has several short walks to waterfalls, but we only stopped at Fantail Falls. DOC has provided lots of room to park and the walk to the waterfall, only took a couple of minutes. Fantail Falls (a 23 metre waterfall), is fed by Fantail Creek and falls in the Haast River. There's an information board, which explains the area's history and how the road was made.

When the Haast highway was being constructed a Pelton water wheel was placed at the bottom of Fantail Falls to generate energy for driving compressors to power some of the road making machinery. The concrete foundation of the water wheel can still be found at Fantail Falls. 

Haast was our destination. I booked in at the 'Haast River Motels and Holiday Park' for a night. It was forecast to rain the next day and being on the West Coast, I thought it might be a good idea to charge up the batteries incase I had a few days of wet weather. Plus, I needed to do some washing. This would be the first time I plugged into power since leaving Nelson.

With an arm load of washing I headed to the laundry. Once I'd turned the machine on, I walked back to the bus. As I turned the corner, I saw we had visitors. Not the human variety, nor any of the rabbit family ... but chickens! Super friendly, inquisitive chooks.

They were extra neighbourly because the guy camping beside us was feeding them. He gave me a container of pellets, so I could feed them too. Not that they needed any encouraging, they were happy to saunter around the bus tantalising the dogs. And needless to say, Oakly didn't get much sleep again that night! Haha

I Lost My Dogs!

I'm sure every dog owner's worst nightmare would be if their dog went missing. Well, my nightmare came true. I lost my dogs! Not just one but both dogs! 

Before I share this latest ordeal, let's start from the beginning.

This post, follows the one about driving over the Crown Range. The Crown Range experience happened in the morning, then around midday we were in Wanaka, and late afternoon we arrived at Albert Town. Which proves, a lot can happen in just one day!

Now Albert Town is another place you could easily spend a week exploring. I didn't do it any justice by only spending a night there.

Just to the left, over the Albert Town Bridge, is the Albert Town Campground, which was where I planned to stay. It's located on the banks of the Clutha River and costs $10 per person/night. 

There was an empty area near the river which looked perfect. I reversed in and got myself reasonably level, turned the bus off and then turned the gas on. The spot was great. My views were of the Clutha River and the Albert Town Bridge. As I was waiting for the jug to boil, I spotted a sign, which I must have driven passed without noticing. I walked over to check it out. 'No Camping Beyond This Point' Ha! So, that's why this ideal spot was empty.

So, back in the bus, and a few hundred metres further on, close to the river was another idyllic looking spot. Another bus was parked a little further on (so, it must be okay), plus I checked for signs - no signs about. All looked good. 

Perfect, I could now put my feet up, enjoy a cuppa and reflect on that bl***dy Crown Range experience. And, while I was doing just that, another thought popped up ... was I parked too close to the river? It was a fast flowing river, and it looked as though I was almost level with it. What if there was a flash flood? 

Seriously Katrina, who has these thoughts out of nowhere? But, it was now lodged in my brain, niggling away. 

So I took a photo of the river from inside the bus and sent it to Bernie. He said, I'd probably be fine, but for peace of mind it wouldn't take much to drive to a higher spot.

And, for the hundredth time, I appreciated how simple it was to be able to move. When we had the big rig, it would have been a mission. But, with the bus, all I did, was jump in the driver's seat and move another few hundreds metres upward!

While finishing my now luke warm cuppa, I noticed a couple of people walking their dogs. Both were off leads, so I (wrongly) thought there can't be any rabbits about, otherwise the dogs would've be on leads. Not wanting Oakly and Boo to miss out on a chance to explore, I grabbed the camera and the three of us set off for a sunset adventure. 

I found what looked to be a good spot to take a photo and as I lifted the camera to my face, the dogs, in sync, used that exact moment to bolt. Had they planned this??? Who knew they could even run that fast?!

In a split second they'd charged down a bank. And my theory that there weren't any rabbits about was blown! Suddenly, there were white, fluffy tails bobbing in all directions. I tried calling the dogs, but it was a complete waste of time. So, I scrambled down the bank, after them, but they were no-where to be seen! They'd gone ... miraculously disappeared! I couldn't even hear them, surely there would be snapping twigs or crunching leaves as they sped through the undergrowth. But nothing! Absolute zilch! 

I called, I looked, I called, I searched and I then I panicked! Every time I stepped on something that made a noise, I startled more rabbits. A scene, which at first glance, appeared to be rabbit-free was actually infested with them - they seemed to materialise from all directions!

The sun was setting and I knew it wouldn't be long before I'd be searching in the dark. I raced up a nearby bank, to a path that ran above the river. All the time, calling and searching. But, there were no signs of the dogs ... only more rabbits!

After about twenty minutes (it felt like 20 hours!), I spotted Boo in the distance. I couldn't believe it - she was the one I thought would disappear down a rabbit hole. She's the smaller of the two and has been down a few holes before.

Once Boo was safely in my arms, I continued calling out to Oakly. I couldn't see any sign of him. My fear was, Oakly would run from rabbit, to rabbit, to rabbit and continue for miles! 

Then, in the distance, I heard a man shouting 'I've found your dog!' I could not have been more relieved! Or surprised, I thought I was the only one there. I followed the man's voice as he kept calling out to me. Eventually I found him, standing above a bank - pointing towards the river.

He told me he'd seen a dog go down a rabbit hole in the side of the bank. As I looked to where he was pointing, I couldn't see anything, just a bank with lots of rabbit holes. I asked, was he sure it was a dog and not a rabbit? He was certain it was a dog.

Holding Boo tightly, I clambered down the bank. The guy followed me and pointed out the the hole. Although, it had a decent size opening, when I looked inside, there was nothing. Just darkness. I called and called Oakly's name, but absolutely nothing - no noise, no movement - nothing!

However, the guy was very convincing and swore Oakly had gone down the hole. There was only one thing to do. I started digging. The guy offered to hold Boo while I dug (if I had of put Boo down, she would have been off again!) So I started to dig, and then the hole veered to the right ...

And bugger me ... there was Oakly! Well Oakly's face. He must of gone in and turned around. How big was this hole!? Every inch of Oakly was covered in dirt! He wasn't keen to come out - I'm not sure if he thought he was in trouble or whether he knew he was on to a good thing, and didn't want to abandon ship.

Thankfully, he came out. And I couldn't thank that guy enough! What were the chances!!!!!

With a dog, tucked securely under each arm, I eventually got back to the bus. By then it was dark. And as I mentioned earlier, the river was fast flowing, so I couldn't take the dogs down to wash them, if it was still light, I would've found a shallow spot, but I wasn't about to try my luck in the dark.

So I brushed off as much dirt as I could, rubbed the dogs down with a towel and filled a bowl with water and washed them as well as I could. 

By this time, I'd missed several phone calls from Bernie. He would of been wondering why I wasn't answering. But I wasn't quite ready to tell him what had happened ... first I needed a wine or two. 

That night, I lay in bed, with a dog snuggled up on either side of me. I couldn't sleep. I kept thinking how close I'd been to losing our little buddies! Between the Crown Range trip and this rabbit adventure, it was a day I wouldn't forget in a hurry.

And, to rub salt into the wounds, one of the dogs began snoring! A deep, loud and relaxing snore! Obviously their day had only tired them out! Not an ounce of remorse for those puppies...haha. 

Kawarau Gorge to Arrowtown

Destination: Arrowtown via Kawarau Gorge

After walking part of the Bannockburn Sluicing track, I headed into Cromwell to fuel up and top up with groceries.

Now that the fog had lifted, the day was second to none. Blue skies, along with a warm autumn temperature, made it a great day to travel. So, we set off along State Highway 6, which follows the Karawau Gorge - it's the main route between Cromwell and Queenstown.

I was looking for a spot to pull over to take some photos, and before long I spotted a sign indicating a rest area. As it was close to a busy road, I left the dogs in the bus. I was only going to be away a few minutes, while I took a couple of pics of the gorge and river.

As I was standing beside a couple of tourists admiring the view, a horn began beeping. It was a continual blast, not just a couple of toots. At first I didn't take much notice, but the incessant beeping sound made me wonder if someone's horn had become jammed? The couple beside me chatted about it and questioned why someone who be so insistent.
Then a thought flashed through my mind. Oh my goodness, could it be my bus's horn? 
Nah ... How could it be? But...maybe...just maybe???
And sure enough, my 'furry travel buddies', were the guilty party! One of them in their effort to get a better look of where I'd gone, had leant over the steering wheel, and yip - the horn was where they'd placed their paw! 
Haha ... thankfully others nearby, had also found it amusing!

Here they are, back on their usual perches, trying to look innocent!

Arrowtown was the next stop.
The avenue leading to the town centre is lined with colourful deciduous trees, displaying vibrant autumn hues. Arrowtown's first avenue was planted in 1867, the trees planted were Sycamore, Ash, Rowan, Oak and Elm. 

This picturesque, historic township, which sits beside the Arrow River, was established in 1862, during the height of the Otago Gold Rush. Thousands of miners flocked to the river and at the height of the gold rush the population reached 7,000.  

Arrowtown - known for its four distinct seasons and as an enchanted gold mining village, has many lovingly restored cottages. According to 'Google' there are over 60 historic buildings and features in the township.

As I drove through the town centre, I saw it was bustling with tourists. Cafes were overflowing, footpaths were crowded and everyone seemed to have a camera in their hand, savouring the moment. It was selfie-central!

It looked entertaining, but crowds aren't my thing, so I headed to the Arrow River. 

Ahhhh - it was bliss. Nothing but the crunching sound of fallen leaves underfoot, birds singing in the afternoon sunlight, the soothing sound of a babbling river, and just the tiniest hint of crispness in the air. Plus that earthy smell so commonly associated with autumn and last but not least, the kaleidoscope of colours. 

I scored the river walk, a 10 out of 10. It was stunning. Just imagine how popular it would be in summer. Here we were in May, and the swimming holes still looked inviting. Admittedly, I wasn't brave enough to validate it, but as for the dogs - they didn't give it a second thought!

Oakly - without a doubt, this little guy makes my world a better place - He's always by my side (my magnet, my shadow). I love him to bits.

My wee buddies enjoying the walk as much as I was. They're such great companions, always eager to go wherever I want to go and for as long as I like. As long as they're with me, they're happy. And the feeling is mutual. I love hanging out with my dogs - seeing them carefree and happy.

Forever hopeful a rabbit will hop by.

We left the River Walk and returned to the bus via quaint little side streets. On my right, was the hillside above the Arrow River. It was ignited with colour - golds, burnt oranges, shades of crimson, magenta and scarlet, plus various tones of green. It was as though the deciduous trees were farewelling the golden season as they prepared for winter. Their grand finale was impressive! 

When we got back to the bus, it was lunchtime. Time for a coffee and a bite to eat before setting off to Glenorchy. Sunlight streamed into the bus, so I sat on the couch, soaked up the sun's warmth, and had lunch. 

Not long after we'd bought the bus, we had the windows tinted. 

I hated the idea, of being like a goldfish in a bowl - visible, without any privacy. Having tinted windows is simply the best! We can see out, but people can't see in. And while having my lunch, I saw proof of how effective our tinted windows were.

A couple parked their car beside us, and as driver got out, he peered into the bus and must have noticed the windows were like a mirror. So he rearranged his hair and checked himself out from all angles - haha! If only he knew I was only a few feet away. Such a great way of people watching without being seen!

Next, we set off to Glenorchy. 

After navigating our way through Queenstown we were once again traveling along a country road. Previously, I'd only driven through Queenstown in a car, so I hadn't taken any notice of how undulating and narrow some streets were.  It's funny how you notice those things when driving something a little bigger (and slower). Even a few round-abouts through town were on an incline.

Driving along Lake Wakatipu was an absolute treat. It is such a long lake!

Being 80kms long, Lake Wakatipu is actually New Zealand's longest lake, and is the third largest (after Lake Taupo and Lake Te Anau). 

The 44 km scenic drive from Queenstown to Glenorchy is all sealed. At a steady pace it takes about three quarters of an hour, but allow more for photo stops.

The road is reasonably narrow and hilly with several bends (some of them are tight), but it's an easy drive. 
My only *gasp* moment was meeting a tour bus on a narrow bend, he obviously knew the road, but I didn't! And, yes, I admit my blink was muchhhh longer than normal.

A few interesting facts I discovered about Lake Wakatipu. 

• Did you know that Lake Wakatipu has a tide? It rises and falls 10cm every 25 minutes. It's been said it's because of its unusual shape (it's kind of shaped like a comical lighting bolt). Maybe it's the result of atmospheric pressure? It would be interesting to find out why.
• Lake Wakatipu was formed 15,000 years ago during the ice-age and is the result of being carved out by a huge retreating glacier. 
• Long fin eels, brown trout, salmon and rainbow trout can be found living in Lake Wakatipu.
• This huge lake reaches a depth of 397m, which means the lake bed actually sits below sea level. 
• Five rivers flow into Lake Wakatipu, but only one flows out, the Karawau River

There are lots of popular walking tracks that start from the Glenorchy-Queenstown Road. Some are lake walks and others are through bush. Either way, I'd be keen to walk them all, but this trip wasn't the right time. 
Maybe next time,  when Bernie's with me ... then he can dog-sit.